John Montagu (1718-1792), the 4th
Earl of Sandwich, who ordered his dinner meat served between two slices of
bread so he could keep playing cribbage without getting the cards greasy,
didn’t really invent the sandwich. People had been eating meat between pieces
of bread for millennia—but his waggish friends thought it funny to call food
served in that manner a “sandwich.”
One popular variety of the
Earl’s delight is known today by many names in different regions: po-boy, submarine, hero, hoagie, grinder,
blimpie, torpedo, rocket, zeppelin or zep,
bomber and bap. The origin of
some of these names is obvious when one looks at the sandwich, which consists
of an oblong roll of French or Italian bread, sliced lengthwise, and filled
with some combination of meats, cheeses, fish, lettuce, tomato, pickles,
peppers, onions, and condiments.
The shape of such a concoction is clearly reminiscent of such devices as
a submarine, a torpedo, a rocket, a blimp, a zeppelin, or a bomber.
But what about po-boy, hoagie, hero, grinder, and bap? The stories are as varied as the ingredients of the
sandwiches.
The most likely origin of the po-boy (a dialectical version of “poor
boy”) was in the New Orleans restaurant of Benny and Clovis Martin,
both former streetcar conductors. During a streetcar strike in 1929, the Martins
helped their erstwhile colleagues by serving them free sandwiches, filled with
odd scraps of beef. The restaurant staff jokingly referred to the strikers as
"poor boys", and soon the sandwiches themselves took on that name.
The hoagie has many possible origins, all in
Philadelphia. It may have started
in World War I, when Italian-American workers in a shipyard known as “Hog
Island,” introduced an Italian-style sandwich that became known as a “Hog
Island” sandwich, then a “hoggie,” and finally a “hoagie.” An alternate explanation is that it’s a
word derived from “Hogan,” a nickname for Irish workers in the shipyard,
referring to the “hog meat” or pork in their sandwiches. Another theory holds
that the sandwiches were first sold in Philadelphia in 1879 by street vendors
known as “hokey-pokey men”; hence, a “hokey” sandwich. Yet another possible origin is the
phrase “on the hoke,” which referred to a destitute person in Philadelphia’s
Italian community. Deli owners would give away meat scraps in bread to the poor
and called these sandwiches “hokies.” Finally, some linguists think that it was
originally a “hooky” sandwich, originating with truant youngsters who ate them
while skipping school. No one really knows the truth.
A hero is a New York term, first seen in
1937. Some people say it was
invented by Clementine Paddleford, a food writer for the New York Herald-Tribune to refer to a sandwich of great, or
“heroic,” size. Others point to a corruption the Greek sandwich known as a gyro, even though the sandwich is
identified with Italians..
Grinder is a New England term, and
yet again we owe it to Italian immigrants, who used the word to refer to dock
workers, who were partial to the sandwich. Or maybe the term originated from the difficulty in chewing
the crusty bread. (In
Boston the grinder is sometimes calle a spukie
or spucky, from a kind of Italian
bread known as spucadella.)
Finally,
bap is a Scottish term for a soft,
floury roll, about 5 inches in diameter, usually more round like a hamburger
bun than oblong, which may or may not be stuffed with various fillings. The
origin of the word, which dates from the 16th century, is
unknown—but may have sprung from pap,
a Scottish word for the mammary gland, which the roll resembles in shape and
size. In fact, in today’s British slang baps
can mean “breasts.” A bap is used to make what the Brits call a “chip butty,”
which is a buttered roll filled with fried potatoes and malt vinegar.
The
Bard of Buffalo Bayou is filled with vinegar and heaven knows what else. Whatever it is, some of it has oozed
out in the following verses:
I.
One day Bacall said, "Listen, Bogie,
I'm feeling pretty tired and logy,
It makes me act like some old fogey—
You know, I think I'll eat a hoagie,
Ideally,
one stuffed with pierogi."
She ate, and then she smoked a stogie,
Then
roped and saddled up a dogie,
And
rode him off to see a yogi.
II.
Way
out west, in far Toledo,
There
a lived a bold and bad bandido,
Who
said in life his only credo,
Was
just to sharpen his libido
By
putting on a sexy Speedo
And
strolling up and down the Lido
While
lunching on a huge torpedo.
III.
The mighty Roman emperor Nero
Thought that he might try a hero,
But instead he opted for a gyro,
Because its price was almost zero.
IV.
Those
TV friends, both Ren and Stimpy,
One
day were feeling rather gimpy,
They
moped around and looked quite wimpy.
At
last they thought they’d have a blimpie,
But,
sad to say, they found it skimpy.
V.
It's said that there's no girl and no boy,
No roly-poly Pillsbury Doughboy,
Who would refuse a luscious po-boy
When
served upon an antique lowboy.
VII.
Now
this is just a quick reminder
That
you can put into a binder:
You really ought to wear a blinder
When
you consume a greasy grinder--
For that will make you feel much kinder.
VIII.
I
say, old chap,
I
took a nap,
Put
on my cap,
And
bought an app
To
make a map
To
find a bap
Right
in my lap.
And
that’s a wrap!
Maybe "hoagie" comes from J. S. Hogg (sometimes "Hogue" and his gargantuan appetite.
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