I had a mediocre slice
of pizza the other day and began to think back to the first time I ever ate
pizza—in the early 1950s at a now defunct restaurant on South Main Street in
Houston called Valian’s. Redolent
of spicy pepperoni sausages, gooey mozzarella cheese, black olives,
mushrooms—and the pièce de résistance,
salty, ocean-scented anchovies—it was a masterpiece of a pizza—known then as
“pizza pie.”
Texans were late in embracing
pizza, which was popular among Italian immigrants on the East Coast of the
United States from the turn of the century. The first New York pizzeria was
opened in 1905 by Gennaro Lombardi in his grocery store on Spring Street in
Lower Manhattan. His brother,
Bruno, opened a similar establishment on Chicago’s Loop around the same time.
It was 1939 before pizza made it to Los Angeles.
Before World War II,
pizza consumption in the United States was pretty much limited to the Italian
population, but American GIs became familiar with it in Italy and brought home
their craving for it.
While a pizza-like dish
can be documented as far back as 997 A.D. in what is now Italy—and even longer
ago in parts of the Middle East—it is the nineteenth-century Neapolitan Italian
version of the dish, thin flatbread with tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese, and
pepperoni sausage, that has become the standard. This form of pizza was created by a baker named Rafaele
Esposito, and the first pizzeria in Naples was the Port ‘Alba, opened in 1830
and still operating. Its menu
today offers more than 50 kinds of pizza, including the famed Pizza Margherita
(tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil), supposedly invented by Esposito in honor of
Queen Margherita and embodying red, white, and green ingredients—the colors of
the Italian flag.
The origin of the word pizza is obscure. The Vocabolario
Etimologico della Lingua Italiana (1907) suggested it came from the Italian
dialectical word pinza (“clamp”) and
ultimately from Latin pinsere (“to
pound or stamp”). Other linguists
point to the Greek pitta (“cake or
pie”), which derived from peptos (“cooked”).
The word entered the English vocabulary in the 1930s.
The Bard of Buffalo
Bayou enjoys a pizza now and then, but it gives him gas, which is most
uncomfortable for him since he is already filled to capacity with hot air.
When
my friend Luigi heats a
Nice
and greasy, cheesy pizza,
He
removes the pepperoni,
Then
adds Spam and fried baloney.
He
won’t touch the mozzarella,
Parmesan
or mortadella,
Luigi
really likes to eat a
Sandwich
made with Kraft Velveeta.
All
that flatbread makes him sick,
Whether
it is thin or thick.
When
he wants to be well fed,
His
pizza’s made on Wonder Bread.